Forum Replies Created
September 30, 2014 at 18:27 #16157
I’ve just had a brainwave / breakthrough!
The dimmer socket does exactly what I need the inline dimmer to do. I just paired up a dimmer socket (connected to a lamp with halogen bulb) with a mood switch. I set moods at “dim” and “bright”. If I turned the socket off and then pressed the mood button for dim, it simply dimmed up to that level. It’ll happily switch between off / dim / brighter without needing to go via “maximum brightness”.
So, a hack would be to mount some dimmer sockets in the loft, with leads going from them to sets of lights. This doesn’t sound like the sort of thing an electrician would be keen on though. It’d mean either having power sockets on a lighting circuit, or lights on a power circuit. Not sure which would be better…. Plus I guess an inline dimmer has been tailored to work with a wider variety of dimmable LEDs than the dimmer socket. Mind you, I could cope with using halogens if it means getting the dim functionality I need.
I’d love to be able to communicate with someone at LightwaveRF about the design decisions for the inline dimmer. Unfortunately I can’t get beyond the support people…September 30, 2014 at 14:17 #16151
Interesting … I’ve not got any to try but do you think you’re sending a number of commands one after the other as you slide across or something else ?
I’m really not sure. I think I might need to work out how to capture the packets on my PC and see if I can trap what’s being sent from the tablet.September 28, 2014 at 18:08 #16094
Just discovered something interesting. The inline dimmer can do a proper “dim up” start, but only when I turn the lights on by dragging the slider in the app!
So, this isn’t a hardware limitation, nor is it something done (as the manufacturers suggest) because of some LED specific reason. It rather seems to be that the inline dimmer isn’t being sent the correct code from the remote/mood switch to allow this!
Thoughts?September 16, 2014 at 14:53 #15458
Thanks for the info skiv. Sounds like I’d better do some Investigating of fibaro / z-wave.
I’ve invested quite a bit of time & money already in LightwaveRF so I’d really like to stick with it, but I don’t see how I can when this fundamental part of their product line seems to have broken functionality. I’m actually amazed that this isn’t causing an issue for more people – the dimmer simply does not work in a reasonable way.September 14, 2014 at 23:34 #15420
Sorry to resurrect my old thread, but I’m now about to redecorate a cinema room and I’d like to replace my current Futronix dimmer with something RF controlled. After watching a film (lights off) I need to be able to dim the lights up to a low level while our eyes adjust, so the above described (frankly illogical) inline dimmer functionality is no good. Can anyone suggest any way I can accomplish this with LightwaveRF? If not, what would be a reasonably priced alternative?
I have a Pebble Steel on order, and as I have an Android phone I’m hoping I can control LightwaveRF devices from my phone by using the “Tasker”, “Pebble Tasker” and Lightwaver apps.
For those that don’t know, Tasker is a super powerful app that allows automation of pretty much anything an Andriod phone can do based upon criteria that include pretty much any input the phone can receive (the existence of this software is one of the major reasons I have an Android phone). Lightwaver is a third party LightwaveRF control app, but the special feature is it has hooks to allow it to be controlled by Tasker. PebbleTasker is simply a way to call Tasker “tasks” from the phone.
I’ve been away from the forum for ages, so apologies if I’m retreading old ground here, but I thought it might be useful. I’ll post an update when I get my phone and (assuming) I get this set this up.
What’s the incompatibility that you’ve seen reported?
I’m using those Megaman 6w LEDs with inline dimmers and they work fine (no flickering). The only issue is that when you turn the switch on (from off), they don’t just “dim up” to the previous dim level. Instead, they come on at full brightness for a second or so, then dim down to the previous level. Not ideal, but I can live with it, and I think this is down to the design of the dimmers rather than the bulbs.
For info, I have them on 3 circuits, with 2, 8 and 4 bulbs respectively.September 2, 2013 at 13:12 #8838
I’ve just had a reply.
I am sorry to read that you are unhappy with the function of our inline dimmer. The illuminating to full brightness then dimming down to the preset, is the way the device was designed.
It was designed to overcome as many LED incompatibility issues as possible. At this point in time LED manufacturers do not make LEDs to any agreed standard, this means that they solve the various technical issues in LED illumination slightly differently with different chips sets. These differences lead to incompatibilities with electronic dimmers. One of these incompatibilities shows itself in some LEDs that will not function unless they are turned on at full brightness.
Hope this helps, please feel free to call me direct if you require further information.
So, it looks like I’m stuck with it working like this. Nice to have a quick response and explanation though.September 1, 2013 at 12:31 #8832
Have you adjusted the dimmer curve dial? I noticed on the instructions the you will experience this behaviour after adjustment.
No, I haven’t touched the dial. I assumed that because I get no flickering, I didn’t need to. I was contemplating adjusting it anyway just to see if it mad a difference though….August 31, 2013 at 22:45 #8830
Thanks for the replies. I’m glad (I think) to hear that this is not normal behaviour. For info the bulbs are Megaman 6w dimmable ones. I think it is these – http://www.megamanuk.com/products/led-lamps/professional-series/reflector/gu10/141435/
I have logged a ticket. I’ll update this thread with any response.
As it was new and from B&Q, I took it back to them and got it replaced. New one works a treat.
It’d be interesting to know if that long (probably 10 seconds or more) period of illumination means something though…
I tried it in both modes but no luck either way.
I’m pretty sure the light was blue – I’ll check when I get home.
Me too – this is exactly what I’d like to do.
Thanks for the tip re. the £29 Nook! I think I’ll get one to try as a remote too, but I’ll try it using OpenRemote.
I’ve already created a simple OpenRemote (backend on Raspberry Pi) iPad screen, so it shouldn’t be too hard to resize it for the Nook.March 31, 2013 at 16:05 #5753
These are pretty cool, and I have similar thoughts to djtomkins – we’re planning a major kitchen install so these would simplify the lighting situation.
I’ve some hesitations though… Firstly, I’d want switching for three circuits (main ceiling, extractor, under wall units). As far as I can see, the wireless switches only go up to two circuits (whereas the wired one goes up to four). Is that true? I could obviously just use two adjacent switches, but that looks a bit more messy.
I have a single wired dimmer switch at the moment. The look and feel of it are of a really good quality bit of kit. I haven’t had first hand experience of the wireless switches, but they don’t look quite as nice – can anyone comment on this?
My other hesitation is related to longevity and what happens if LWRF goes belly up. If I use wired switches and one of those switches fails (and I have read more than one account of this happening), I can always revert to traditional kit. If an in-line dimmer fails, I’m probably going to have to start chiselling out my walls if I want to revert to old fashioned switches.
That being said, I’d really like to use this kit. Any thoughts?
(sorry for the delayed response).