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This can be relatively simple to achieve, depending on the alarm panel. You need to first establish is the alarm has any programmable outputs (dry contact relays, or open collector outputs should both be fine). As long as the panel is able to activate some kind of relay output when triggered, you can take that into the Raspberry Pi using the “PiFace Digital I/O” board, which connects to the GPIO pins.
In order to talk to lightwave, you have two fundamentally different options. One is to send UDP commands to the wifilink, to enable moods, turn on lights etc as you require. The second would be to use something along the lines of an RFXCom433e USB transceiver, which can talk (once programmed) directly to the lightwave devices. You can do this via the likes of Domoticz, or using your own scripts if you prefer to program it that way.
If your alarm doesn’t have the necessary output, it might also be possible to trigger a 12v relay using the Bell + and – wires which go to the siren, but if the alarm is monitored or professionally maintained, they might frown upon this, so using a dedicated PGM output would be better.
Hope that helps you a little.
iOS10 and the new home kit app will certainly shake up the market no end – and hopefully bring the ultimate in plug and play.
I’ve been using HomeBridge which allows Siri and Homekit apps to talk to Domoticz, and it works really well, no doubt apple approved official accessories will work flawlessly.
Interested to hear what LightwaveRF /Megaman say about this if you contact their support team.
I have one socket which did something similar, removing power (turning off the MCB) resolved it. However, another double gang socket has started doing this, or something similar.
At first, the left side works fine, but the right side won’t turn on remotely, but it does if you press the button. Tried re-pairing, still the same. Tried full reset of both, and repairing – same, left works flawlessly, right won’t work remotely.
Now it’s developed an entirely new phenomenon – if I press the button for the right side (sometimes) it turns off the left socket. It never turns it back on again though, have to press the left button to do that! Left still works remotely, right not working at all.
Mine is probably well over 2 years old unfortunately, so I’m not sure if they’d honour it under warranty. To be honest, I’m not that impressed with the sockets – they’re flaky on signal (due to metal backboxes in solid brick walls) and the plugin adaptor modules are far more reliable and easier to move around!
And it works very well, the NetAtmo thermostat! Admittedly, it’s only been on for 3 hours in 2 months, but that’s the advantage of summer!
I have the majority of the house kitted out with Lightwave, but have started using Domoticz on a Raspberry PI, with the Pilot app on iOS, and an RFXCom433e USB transciever – and have to say it’s far superior to using Lightwave’s own Wifi link, even via UDP with alternative front-ends (also on a raspberry pi).
Some distant devices take 3-5 signals from the Wifi Link, located centrally in the house before they actually switch, it’s variable based upon weather and other voodoo factors! However, sending from the RFXCom, which is also central, but slightly higher up (and thus further away), very rarely has any signal issues. Perhaps it’s the external antenna which makes this more reliable.
Lightwave has its place, and I’m still yet to see any switches and sockets which look as good for less than 3-4x the price of LWRF kit.
Domoticz also has the advantage of integrating all these things together into one place, and the ability to create a nice “Dashboard” and layout plans. Wish I’d taken the plunge earlier!
I have 16 on/off spots plus one colour changing strip, all controlled via 3x 3-way Lightwave relays.
This allows the soffits to be controlled in groups but if you just want all on / all off, then one channel will happily drive them all.
Colour changing wall wash is better via a strip mounted 12″ out, also, would strongly recommend fitting it in 10-12mm conduit with a diffuser, rather than sticking directly on. The glue is never as good as they say, and the diffuser helps spread the light more evenly.
Colour changing controller is mounted in an IP67 wiska adaptable box, with the AC-DC psu/driver mounted in the loft space with the relays. This keeps it nearer IMHO!
I used the volts free relay as a gate controller. It was so unreliable I’ve taken it off now! Lightwave struggles with more than one command every 3 seconds, so depending on how critical the timing is, I’d interface the volt free relay into a Bentley Security ultra timer: http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/85136-bentley-security-projects-372-ultra-timer.html
That, or set the timer function on the coffee machine? 😉
Is it the gang with only 4 bulbs on which is causing the problem? As suggested above, it would be worth adding one halogen into the circuit (on the troublesome gang) to eliminate a lack of load causing the issue.
Dimmable bulbs do vary, I’ve had one of two in a batch of 40+ which buzz, so I swapped them out and the others are ok. Equally I’ve seen some really weird things going on with a single gang dimmer. It was fine with 1 or 2 bulbs, but didn’t work with 3 – usually it’s the other way around!
Good luck, perseverance is often required with “new” tech – even if this isn’t that new!
£100 would have bought you 8 dimmable GU10s and some fittings to go with them?!
If you don’t need dimming go down the inline relay and remote switch route, for dimmable change to GU10 will provide far more compatible options at present.
Yes you can. Each device can have up to 6 registrations allocated to it.
Wifi Link – Room1-Device1
Mood controller 1
Mood controller 2
Remote switch 1
Remote control 1
Would still leave 1 spare!
This is quite useful for a number of scenarios
I’ve noticed something similar with the 6W mega man bulbs on a 400 series dimmer. They don’t seem to get down under maybe 50-60% of full brightness?
I suspect it’s to make the dimming curve more compatible with more LED bulbs, for our usage it was ok, but I guess for some mood lighting it might be far too bright still?
Depending on whether you get the older 200 series, or the new 400 series dimmers, compatibility varies.
Megaman bulbs are supposed to be fully supported on 400 (and possibly 200) series. I’ve had good success personally with DIAL (B&Q) bulbs, and the Dimmable Costco GU10 bulbs. Plenty others don’t work at all well, so would advise using a reputable supplier who’s tested or will do full refunds if they’re not compatible.
Just a word of advice/warning for those fitting LWRF relays to gates/doors/motors:
1) Ensure your gate or door motor controller has the necessary safety edges/optical sensors and automatic safety features required BY LAW. Note also that the regulations have specific stipulations that differ if the device can be operated “out of line of sight” (i.e. remotely).
2) I have over 70 lightwave devices installed, occasionally we’d turn a light or socket on, and find out minutes or hours later that the gate had decided to open itself! Checking CCTV you could see it coincided with another device coming on, but no signal was sent to the relay itself. This happened several times, to the extent I uninstalled the lightwave relay, it’s simply too flaky!
If you need remote control of doors/gates, I would recommend a GSM dialler/gate controller, more secure and far more reliable!
I guess if you don’t keep much in your garage but require the remote access, lightwave might be ok 😉
I take the equivalent (PGM Output / Set+) from the panel and feed it via a Bentley Relay (for Isolation) into a Raspberry PI Digital I/O board. The PI runs scripts which then fire a signal to the Lightwave Wifi Link.
You need Bentley relays in your life though, they are awesomely flexible, the Ultra-Timer is pretty useful too..
iControl web works as long as you have a Webserver (raspberry pi) or something to fire commands at the link from.
iControl Web by Sebastian Bub Software Distribution
UI is built up from configuration file, which takes a bit of learning, but it’s great and fast once setup.
If you have the wifi link, which you do, then you can use various APIs to talk to that from a rpi, while experimenting with the rfcomm devices. Not tried other apps, as have written my own scripts to supplement the built in timers mainly.