Forum Replies Created
November 6, 2018 at 21:56 #25452
I thought the price wasn’t too bad actually. £3 a unit was cheaper than the rubbish Megaman units I had previously.
And a further update – I also had bought 10 Megaman units for my kitchen as well as the units above which were for my landing corridor. These didn’t suffer from dimming issues which I put down to the fact that there were 10 of them, rather than 4 in above scenario.
However, four of them have now failed within weeks of each other and all less than 18 months usage! Very poor, and will never use Megaman again now. Went and got another 5 pack of the Screwfix units.
EDIT: PS, No affiliation with Screwfix, just saw it looks rather pushy!
Just wanted to share my experience, as I know it’s VERY difficult finding good info on this topic. Any other feedback you get would be welcome all round I think.November 2, 2018 at 22:49 #25449
I had problems with some “recommended” Megaman units which never fully went off.
Replaced them on a punt with these from Screwfix and was pleasantly surprised that they cured the problem and work fine.
Not the lowest dimming level compared to halogens, but that’s LEDs for you in general I think.
Many thanks for the updated feedback, it is good of you both to think of others (like myself!) who can benefit from this positive news.
OK, will stick with Evohome for now, even though that has been less than perfect.
The TRVs are less intrusive, less often, and battery life is good.
And for the record I was using best quality Duracell and others, not rechargeables.
Very poor battery life no matter what.
I also tried the lube mod with little to no success,
To be fair, I only tried it with a few but with 16 valves I couldn’t be bothered trying after the third one.
Far too fiddly and time consuming for a job that shouldn’t need doing.
I also had two just die on me which was the final straw.
Are you saying that the TRVs can individually call for heat now?
I must have missed that change.
Are the TRVs new ones or is it just a system change?
Also, are they any quieter and do the batteries now last more than a few weeks?
If the answer to all three questions is “Yes” then I’d be interested again.
If not, will stick to my EvohomeNovember 14, 2016 at 21:15 #22245
For what it’s worth, I have two separate rooms with 10 GU10s on each circuit with a 400 series dimmer and these work reasonably well, so 8 is not a limit.
However, can’t answer your question on mixed lamps on a circuit.
As for your last question I’m not sure what you mean exactly. How are you thinking of using a wall dimmer with 3 pin sockets?
MikeNovember 14, 2016 at 21:06 #22243
Not sure I can provide definitive help, and sorry that no-one has got back to you.
I suspect that one of the reasons is that you are asking a number of diverse questions to which there may not be finite answers.
Unfortunately, while LED bulbs have provided enormous benefits in terms of power efficiencies, they are a bit of a minefield when it comes to whether dimmers will work with them, especially LWRF
In the “old days”, the only issue was generally maximum power. With LED we have issues with max power, min power, type of dimming, type of LED, and type of compromise with each. For example. even though I went with recommended bulbs (Megaman, see attachment) and they dim reasonably well, they produce noise (buzzing) that I never got with incandescents.
In another room, I have non-recommended bulbs (B & Q) that work OK if you start at full power and ramp down, but have poor reliability if you try mood lighting at a specific level – they tend to come on at that level “when they want to”
Sorry if this isn’t too much help, it’s more by way of explanation/excuse that LEDs do not seem to have straight forward rules.
But I’ll GLADLY be proven wrong if others have better insight!
Attachments:You must be logged in to view attached files.August 14, 2016 at 08:38 #21832
If you go down the Evohome path let me know as I might be ditching the whole lot.
Others like it but to be honest I’ve had lots of grief with it.
One particular issue is in fact a TRV controller which is on the end of RF range. As a result it doesn’t operate reliably.
i also have problems with rads coming on when the hot water fires up – but only sometimes…
I don’t want to put too much of a dampener on it as others have had great experiences.
I ended up having to take videos of some of my anomalies to prove to Honeywell that my system was set up as per their documentation, but still didn’t work correctly.
Pity, as in other respects it’s nice kit.August 14, 2016 at 08:21 #21830
Sorry, was answering myself rather than your question.
Yes, they were noisy enough to annoy, though there seemed to be sample variations in just how noisy.
The other issue was the length of noise, they would do recalibration checks at the drop of a hat, and when they were operating it seemed to go on a long time. In other words, part of the annoyance was the fact that once you’re aware of the noise, it seems to go on for quite a while.
The Evohomess by contrast were noticeable, but are quieter and operate in fairly short bursts.
In a bedroom I’d say both were intrusive, but one was acceptable (Evohome) the other wasn’t. (LW)August 14, 2016 at 08:14 #21829
And yes, from experience they are noisy.
I went down the Evohome path eventually, as recommended by others here.
The TRVs are quieter, and generally better but at a sigignificant price hike when you have 16 rads (as I do)
Not only that, I’ve had several comms issues with it, and still cannot resolve one of them.
Thinking of ditching the whole lot and going back to basic control again.
Though I’d probably put the hot water control on an LW relay timer now that they seem fairly reliable.August 14, 2016 at 08:03 #21827
LW944 is just a code for a three-pack of the LW922s I believe.
So, exactly the same TRV controllers but three times the noise 🙂
My experiences with various systems have been a very mixed bag.
When we first moved into our current house over 10 years ago it had a relatively simple system consisting of a Drayton RF3 Wireless Room Stat which controlled the boiler via a Potterton timer. The timer also allowed multiple Hot Water on-off times with more than enough flexibility.
My first attempts to improve on this was to introduce an outside thermostat which meant the heating didn’t fire up when the temperature differential between inside and outside was small – my first efforts at “smart heating”. In practice, it was difficult to get the right offset for it to work totally successfully. That said It did remove some unnecessary boiler firing which had previously happened when the room stat called for heat but outside temperature was also quite high – ie small temperature gradient, so little heat losses.
I also put TRVs on every rad at this point as part of a rad refurb plan.
After I’d played around with LWRF for lighting and relay control etc ( and still do, nothing has the price/performance ratio for my requirements) I decided to try the heating, against the advice of many of this forum.
All I can say is that most of what has been said seems true, particularly the TRVs. They are noisy, unreliable (I had two failures out of 10) and are not that intelligent (see above re zones). On the plus side they are “relatively” cheap. I also used an LWRF relay with timers to control the Hot Water. This also happened to be very unreliable, and I would often wake up to no hot water. However, I think this was at a bad time when things weren’t working well timer-wise anyway and I have no problems with other regular timers on relays at the moment. I might consider reverting to this system. In any event, this is independent of “LWRF Heating” as such.
Having read all the good press about Evohome I decided to give this a try, despite the high cost. Bearing in mind I have 16 radiators this worked out to be about twice the price of the LWRF kit, even buying bulk. Despite what others may say, it is not 100% reliable – I had two faulty BDR91 Wireless Relay Box units with RF problems. I do believe there are few failures, but it took a lot of convincing to both the supplier and Honeywell that they were indeed faulty. I ended up buying an extra one and took videos of my wall to show a good one and bad one!
Since then I have also experienced frequent RF comms issues with one of my bedroom TRVs. I’ll accept that it’s the furthest distance from the controller, but it’s within their range spec and whenever I do RF tests it looks OK. Regardless, there’s no mechanism to extend the RF range if there are comms issues due to distance. I don’t live in a mansion, just a 4 bedroom detached house. I’ve been fobbed off with “it must be too far away”. Well I’m sorry, but surely this sort of system is designed for EXACTLY that sort of environment!!??? I can always walk across my lounge and turn a TRV down if that’s all it can do remotely.
On top of this, I still have problems where the Hot Water sometimes switches the heating relay. Evohome will tell you it’s a double-bound relay (and quite often it is, because it’s very easy to set up incorrectly) but I’ve become quite adept at having to set up the system from scratch and it’s not that.
As you can tell from the rant, I’m not that enamoured with Evohome. Getting an installer in to do it may be a better option, at least you have a direct recourse in the case of problems. Also, as mentioned, it is easy to set the system up wrongly. Even rhlangdon says above that any issues were down to him, and I get the impression he’s pretty clued up. I have to say I’ve had more frustration with Evohome than almost any other kit I’ve set up. When it works, it mostly works well, but I doubt I’ll get my money back. I strongly suspect you can get more savings by having mild winters and (switching) energy supplier deals.
I accept that I’ve probably been unlucky, but once I got on the forums I realised I was not alone with the inconsistencies and faulty items I was experiencing.
At the moment I’ve decided to leave it in for another winter, if for no other reason than I can’t face taking it all out and starting again.
But if it goes…. I suspect I would just go back to pretty much what I had when I moved in – a simple timer controller.
I had some issues with dusk/sunset timers on three different circuits (two dimmers and a basic plug)
I saw that IFTTT was announced to be working with LightwaveRF dimmers and power, so thought I’d give it a try.
Must say it hasn’t skipped a beat so far.
I can’t see why it could/should be more reliable than just using LWRFs own timers, but so far that seems to be the case.
Go figure, as our American friends like to say
As Node Zero says, basically.
Technically, you should connect the switched live out to your light from the “outer” connection, assuming I’ve got your terminology correct.
That way the light should come on when the ON is selected rather than OFF.
See the attached layout to explain more.
TBH this is all in the manual which should have come with it, and I’d be wary of doing this if you’re not sure.
Attachments:You must be logged in to view attached files.
If you go by the Megaman rule of thumb, then the LW400 and similar dimmers have a max load of 5 x 5W LED lamps.
(See link below)
Frankly this seems very low to me, and is at odds with other info where they say they have tested up to 10 dimmable LEDs with LIghtwaveRF dimmers. But it does beg the question what happens when you mix and match LED and halogen. Perhaps this may have caused the second failure? Seems poor if it has, and I’d love to know as I’m about to install loads of LEDs next week.
Incidentally, I agree with clarksn re the 50% limit. A while back I adjusted the dim range for a pair of LEDs in my living room and they go much lower now. That said, I often have to go up, then down! They don’t like starting at, say 10% but will start at 50 and go down. Weird.