LED Kitchen Counter Lights

  • September 8, 2014 at 18:44 #15112
    nrbolton
    Participant

    Hi, I’ve fitted a 3 gang Lightwave socket in the kitchen (2 light fittings and the lights under the kitchen cupboards). They are LED bulbs and they just flicker all the time so I’ve disconnected the switch on that gang. Is there any way of making these lights work? Can I fit a relay between the Lightwave light switch and the lights? If so, could anyone send me the link to a suitable relay? Thanks.

    September 8, 2014 at 20:20 #15123
    markk
    Participant

    Are the strip lights connected to a three way socket or switch? The switches are dimmers so any lamps connected to them must be dimmable.

    Running RFXCom with Domoticz on raspberry pi3. LWRF dimmer switches, PIRs and plug sockets. Some Homeeasy switches, harmony hub controlling AV and air con. Geofencing with Pilot app. Tado for heating and cooling.

    September 12, 2014 at 21:20 #15325
    nrbolton
    Participant

    They aren’t strip lights, they are small round LED bulbs. I’m guessing they’re not dimmable, but I’ve been told you can get round this but adding a relay between the switch and the lights?

    December 31, 2014 at 19:58 #17666
    nrbolton
    Participant

    Can anyone add any more help to this post. I still haven’t been able to sort it. Thanks.

    December 31, 2014 at 20:13 #17668
    skiv71
    Participant

    If you use a relay, you bypass any potential dimming issue’s as you get proper on/off switching.

    The JSJSLW821 would be an ideal candidate here, as long as you can supply the relay with mains, i.e Live + Neutral.

    https://www.lightwaverf.co.uk/LightwaveRF-On-off-500W-Inline-Relay-JSJS-LW821.html

    HTH

    Neil

    developer of BMS Link (http://linode.bmslink.co.uk). A cloud based Home Automation platform for LightwaveRF, Z-Wave, RFXCOM.

    January 7, 2015 at 20:41 #17758
    azibux1
    Participant

    Neil do you mind giving some info on how the relay is wired please? Is it simply live and neutral to the relay… Then run either the live OR the neutral from the device ‘through’ the relay to switch it?

    And I’m guessing I’m right in saying there is no way of ‘tricking’ it with a loop of wire, to use the live and neutral from the device you’re trying to switch? I suppose if you’re switching the neutral, you could run the live to the relay then back to the device… But then you’d need a permanent neutral still to the relay?

    Thanks

    EDIT: Going on this pic, is it just live and neutral to the L and N… Then the far left, and third from left is used for the switching of the live or neutral from the device?

    January 7, 2015 at 21:05 #17761
    markk
    Participant

    The manual is here: https://www.lightwaverf.co.uk/files/downloads/Inline%20Relay.pdf

    If you are using it to control a mains voltage load you will need to run a jumper cable from the L to the Com and the neutral needs to run from the mains to the relay and back out again to the load. The diagram in the manual and instructions for connecting the relay to a mains powered circuit are whT you need to follow. Please, if you are unsure, get a qualified spark to help. Electricity really hurts if you get it wrong.

    Running RFXCom with Domoticz on raspberry pi3. LWRF dimmer switches, PIRs and plug sockets. Some Homeeasy switches, harmony hub controlling AV and air con. Geofencing with Pilot app. Tado for heating and cooling.

    January 7, 2015 at 21:15 #17762
    skiv71
    Participant

    Hi,

    The relay is an active device and therefore require’s a permanent supply, L + N to the far right terminals.

    Once you’ve sorted the supply out, you can move onto the relay contact’s.

    These are dry (no volt) contacts…

    If you issue an ‘on’ command, a circuit is made between ‘COM’ and the left most terminal.

    If you issue an ‘open’ command, I believe you’ll again, end up with the above.

    If you issue a ‘close, command, you’ll have a circuit between ‘COM’ and the opposite contact.

    An ‘off’ or ‘stop’ should break both circuits.

    If you are controlling a mains (240Vac) load and are going to wire from this relay direct, you’d connect your ‘LIVE load’ to the left terminal and you can pop your ‘Neutral load’ into the supply ‘N’ of the relay.

    As the relay offers volt free terminals, you can switch whatever you like.

    In the case of ‘non mains’ the com would be fed by the alternative circuit.

    If you’re not electrically minded, might be best to get someone in. That said, relay’s etc will throw quite a number of electricians of course anyways lol.

    developer of BMS Link (http://linode.bmslink.co.uk). A cloud based Home Automation platform for LightwaveRF, Z-Wave, RFXCOM.

    January 7, 2015 at 22:07 #17764
    azibux1
    Participant

    Haha thanks for both responses and the link to the manual

    I’d say I am electrically minded and carry out most tasks, just wasn’t sure on the specifics of the wiring of this relay, which that manual should clear up

    Thanks guys 🙂

    January 8, 2015 at 17:35 #17768
    Bry382
    Participant

    Would be interested to know if this works

    Cheers

    January 9, 2015 at 10:09 #17778
    charliehorse
    Participant

    Don’t know about the above wiring but I have one of those relays turning my heating on and off.
    It has worked very reliably so far even externally over the Lightwave Link and the Android app.
    I can control it also with one of my remotes that came with my Lightwave light bulbs.
    I have some ceiling LED’s in the kitchen controlled with a Lightwave socket in-line in the attic,
    a bit unconventional but works great with the same remote.

    January 9, 2015 at 13:20 #17781
    rooflessdriver
    Participant

    I had strip lights under the kitchen cupboards in my old house and used one of these relays successfully, following the wiring diagram in the link.

    Haven’t got round to doing the same in the new house yet, but maybe a job for this weekend!

    January 22, 2015 at 22:07 #18031
    J.g
    Participant

    hi all
    im trying to do something similar.
    ive got 3 under cabinet lights (http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-48429-viva-47-cabinet-link-striplight-white/48429 ) wired to a single switch.
    if i replace the switch for a single for a dimmer switch ,
    1. would this work with the lights,( not bothered about dimming)
    2. if not would i need to use the above relay and if so would i still need replace original switch with a lwrf dimmer switch as well.
    or is there any other options available.
    thanks in advance

    January 22, 2015 at 22:39 #18032
    markk
    Participant

    Wheather or not you want to dim the lights, the LWRF dimmers don’t light the lamps to full brightness even when fully on. So, the lights will always be in a state of slightly dimmed. If they aren’t dimmable, you’re likely to encounter problems. Installing an on/off relay will solve this. Then replace your existing switch with a LWRF wireless switch and pair that with the relay.

    Running RFXCom with Domoticz on raspberry pi3. LWRF dimmer switches, PIRs and plug sockets. Some Homeeasy switches, harmony hub controlling AV and air con. Geofencing with Pilot app. Tado for heating and cooling.

    January 24, 2015 at 19:22 #18053
    J.g
    Participant

    thanks markk for the info,
    so theres no way i can use the original on/off switch as im doing now and use the in line relay to control on/off via the app.
    all my other rooms have lwrf switches and ive set them to be all off at certain times (kids always leaving them on) just wanted to do the sane with the kitchen cabinet lights
    thanks

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