August 11, 2017 at 14:06 #23945ConradParticipant
I have a couple of double sockets that died on me, out of warranty so not much to be done. However…… From a post on this site, a contributor called Dave and some investigation work done by my techie brother, it looks like there is a possibility to bring these sockets back to life! It appears that the chips in the sockets is the only part that has died. I now have a few of these chips but have no clue if / how they can be programmed to work. If anyone has sorted this I would be over the moon to find out how to do it and bring these sockets back from the dead. I’m guessing I’m not the only person with this problem.
Conrad.October 15, 2017 at 17:39 #24259WHWSussexParticipant
Did you have any luck with this? I have had 3 x 2Gangs die on me. It’s really frustrating and always happens outside of Warranty period.
The last one just died on me today. Switch lights on the front all off and dead.
philOctober 16, 2017 at 08:09 #24261ConradParticipant
I’m afraid not. My brother did all the hard work identifying the chip, I got some from Alibaba.com hoping they’d come with some basic coding but alas not. I did ask Lightwaverf but they couldn’t help. What I did learn from them is that the original wall sockets weren’t very good at powering anything with a motor i.e. vacuum cleaners etc. however the later models are supposed to be more robust. However….. and this goes on a bit…..
I recently installed a master master light switch (I’d had for ages but never used) and purchased directly from Lightwave a master slave (very, very expensive). The combination worked for a couple of days before the master master failed on the side connected to the slave of the master slave. I called Lightwave support who mentioned that there were 2 versions of the double gang light switch (v1 & v2) and that a v1 wouldn’t work with a v2 hence the v1 master master failing on the side connected to the v2 slave. After a little escalation within Lightwave support, they sent me a replacement v2 master master. Hold that thought because this goes on a bit more…….
Anyway, a single gang light switch on a different light had lost its ‘click’ sound when being switched off, it still worked. I decide to see if I could utilise the failed master master and so dismantled the switch. I took out the circuit board from the failed side that had the switching mechanism and fitted onto the single gang switch and it worked! I’ve just gone back and had a look at the switching mechanism and it has the same chip as the double wall socket so……… whatever failed in the light switch, it wasn’t the chip! The potential therefore is that it might not have been the chip that failed in the wall socket.
I shall give my brother a call and see if he can take another look at the wall sockets!
Conrad.October 16, 2017 at 18:01 #24263btideyParticipant
One of the main failure mechanisms on the power sockets was the relay not the electronics.
In particular, the contacts could stick on if switching highly inductive loads (motors). If the blue amber lights are working but the switch is permanently on then this is likely to be the problem. Sometimes one can free up the relay contact by giving it a sharp tap.November 21, 2017 at 10:33 #24514davew21Participant
The chip in all the early light wave stuff is the same, as a new device it a blank microcontroller which is then programmed with custom software to make it do what you want , the code in the chip in a wall socket is completely different to the code in a light switch so the devices are not interchangeable regardless of the fact the number on the top is the same.
In addition to this if you have a wall socket thats failed the chip has probably died, especially if you have been using it with inductive loads, i.e a vacuum cleaner, switching the cleaner off with the wall socket switch instead of using the switch on the vacuum is a sure fire way to kill the socket, this is purely down to crap design of the socket 🙁
DaveNovember 21, 2017 at 16:13 #24516h3mpParticipant
if it’s a microcontroller – unless they deliberately blew the read-only fuses then there is a good chance you can copy the code from a working socket to a blank mcu.. – you just need to identify the type of mcu and work out where the programming pins go..
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