August 10, 2017 at 12:52 #23942SparkyqParticipant
Just been testing the kit and its pretty good; any advice on what bulbs to buy (GU10) I cant seem to find any that are marked as compatible dimmable, what happens if they are not dimmable will it break or will they not dim? Seems fine at the moment with non dimmable ones I am testing with.
Also is the most LED bulbs per gang 10? Seems a bit limiting I need to do 16 per switch ideally, any clever ideas how to handle that or do I need many more dimmers
Finally whats the best way to control LED strip with lightwave? Is it using a relay with a normal led strip and transformer? or is there a better way??
Thanks for advice
MarkAugust 11, 2017 at 11:30 #23944nevetsecirpParticipant
Ref Gu10 Lightwaverf have a bulb compatibility list on their website which mainly recommends Megaman bulbs, which I have and they work well, If you search this forum many have also recommended others such as Philips etc ref if not dimmable I guess something will eventually break, and if its the LWRF switch it can be costly, as the switches are actually dimmers so they need the dimmamble bulbs to match
Ref qty of lamps on a circuit, it is to do with the total wattage of the lamps not the qty, so actually if you have 6 high wattage lamps they may exceed the limits whereas 12 low wattage may not, you also need to look at whether you have 200 or 400 series dimmers as they perform differently on LED lamps, the 200 series was originally launched for filament and halogen bulbs, although they worked with limited led lamps, the 400 series was specifically designed for led lamps and they have a range and adjustments which can be found in the instructions on the website.
Sorry I cant advise regarding the led strip as I haven’t done it, although in the LWRF shop recently they had their own sets on offer
LWRF light switches in several rooms, WIFI Link, Energy Monitor, Socket x3 and multiple On/Off adapters. PIR controlling lights and doorbell utilising light feature. TRV's for heating. Relays for garden and outside lamps
Linked with Amazon Alexa via a dotAugust 11, 2017 at 16:53 #23946ZoodleParticipant
re: LightwaveRF and dimmable LEDs
As I moved home recently, I used the opportunity to install LighwaveRF dimmers and low energy lighting.
I currently have fourteen LW420 series dual dimmers controlling a mix of about fifty Megaman 6 watt GU10 dim-to-warm led downlighters and ten Philips E27 halogen table/floor lamps. The latter will be swapped for Megaman E27 led lamps in due course.
The Megaman LEDs and LightwaveRF dimmers work together very well. Just a few of the LEDs emitted a faint glow when switched off where there were less than three LEDs on a dimmer. Swapping the offending LEDs to a different circuit which had more LEDs fixed the problem.
The LightwaveRF instruction leaflet suggests a minimum load of 10 watts per dimmer to avoid flicker and a maximum of 250 watts incandescent load per dimmer. As the LED control electronics are highly reactive, I would be inclined to de-rate the dimmer load by 50% giving a maximum of 20 LEDs of 6W each, though the most I have actually used is 8 LEDs on one dimmer.
The dimming range needs to be adjusted as per the LightwaveRF instruction leaflet to get the widest dimming range otherwise the LEDs will be too bright. Mixing LEDs and halogens on a circuit is not so good as the LEDs will be too bright when the halogens are very dim.
I have one LW420 set to minimum dimming range that is controlling a mix of dimmable and non-dimmable kitchen cabinet lights. This is not too successful as the LEDs can go into flashing spasms at some settings of the dimmer, but it’s still OK as just an on-off switch. Of course the non-dimmable LEDs don’t dim at all.
The dim-to-warm effect of the Megaman LEDs is a very good approximation to an incandescent lamp and is in my opinion well worth the premium cost.
The LightwaveRF two-way dimmer wiring is different to the conventional system. This means rewiring, which is a pain, and the purchase of specific LW452 “slave” dimmers, which is even more pain. There is no four-gang slave dimmer product, so I use two-gang dimmers everywhere. The extra wiring needed for two-way switching results in a very crowded back box, so I used Timeguard wiring centres tucked away in the boiler cupboard and airing cupboard to simplify the wiring scheme. I believe that LightwaveRF now has a wire-free two-way switching solution that should make things simpler.
I have a B&Q LED strip around the patio eaves which is (non-dimming) switched by a plug-in LW380 Basic Remote Controlled 13A Socket operated by a LW201 wire free switch. This also works very well.
Hope this ramble is of help!August 15, 2017 at 12:43 #23971SparkyqParticipant
Thanks for posts, just found out the ones I was using were dimmable after all, Lightwell ones from lightrabbit, they work fine although only dim to maybe 25%. I tried some Lumilife from LEDHUT and they buzzed, so will look at more lightwell ones or possibly megaman based on the above.
I have revised lighting to max 10 GU10s per dimmer so I am hoping that it will be OK
given up on LED strips for now, may add later using switchable plug sockets.
I have given up on ‘true’ two way light switches as the wiring is crazy and gone for a main switch and wireless/mood switches, shame they don’t all look the same but at least they work in a simple enough way.
Anyone know if the PIRs can be used outside?October 15, 2017 at 15:44 #24258ZoodleParticipant
Further to my earlier comment:
I no longer recommend using more than 8 Megaman 6W GU10 LED lamps per LightwaveRF dimmer. This is as a result of adding further lamps to the circuit which resulted in failure of the dimmer after about an hour or two of running. I think this was probably due to triac overload as the blue and yellow indicators still resopnd normally. I tried a second LW400 dimmer which also failed. I am now using a Varilight dimmer with 15 LEDs which works just fine.
Does anyone know af a reputable LightwaveRF repair service?
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